The Certificate

Since all the above factors taken together determine the relative value of a diamond and these require a practiced eye or a person who is qualified and skilled in using the correct and proper gemological instruments, this last element has taken center stage of late. The Certificate or the Grading Report lists all recognizable characteristics (as mentioned above) of the piece being evaluated and since each stone has its own special features (almost like a fingerprint), a certificate becomes a critical document in the evaluation process. While the record does not arrive at a monetary evaluation, the grades assigned to each category of cut, clarity, color, and caratage will together define the stone’s qualities and facilitate defining its relative cost as applicable in that particular period in time.

An analysis of various certificates will go a long way in helping the buyer narrow his choices and come to a decision in the process of selection which can be quite confusing without this tool. It is imperative, however, that the certificates are all from a recognized and reputable lab. Some of these labs also inscribe the stone with its quality for an extra charge, making it impossible to question the quality of the particular diamond for all times to come.

So go ahead confidently and purchase a ‘certified diamond’.

The Carat

A properly cut stone weighs almost 40% of the original rough stone. Carat is the word used to define the size of a diamond, measured in terms of its weight. A full carat comprises 100 points which means half a carat is 50 points. Even a single point difference translates into a big price variation. For instance, a 99 point stone will be priced much below a full carat even though visually the difference is negligible.

The Color

The International Color Grading Systems Chart has defined the parameters for differentiation of Diamonds on the basis of color:

D, E, F Colorless
G, H, I, J Near Colorless
K, L, M Faint Yellow
N, O, P, Q, R Very Light Yellow
S to Z Light Yellow

The Superior diamond

The King of Gemstones: the diamond, as you know, could cost a fortune or a few pennies or anywhere between these two extremes. Alongside the original mined rock, there are replicas and cubic zirconias and moissanites. So how does one ascertain the quality and the value of any piece? Traditionally the four C’s are well-known: Cut, Clarity, Color, and Carat. Since all these factors need the assistance of jewelers, some of whom are dependable and some not; to these four factors we add the fifth and most critical: Certificate. We will discuss each aspect separately in order to understand the relative quality of a diamond and thereby arrive at its precise value.

The Cut

Diamonds as we find them have been hewed out of a rock, man made or natural. While cutting the original piece, the artisan could adopt any shape: Heart-shaped, Oval, Marquise, Pearl shaped or others. The intention though is to cut the stone in a manner that will afford it maximum brilliance since a diamond refracts more light than any other gemstone.

The shine in a diamond emanates from the effective use of light as it passes through the stone; the objective of the cut is that the ray of light should enter the stone and be reflected back and forth from all its sides before being reflected back through the top of the diamond. This results in the maximum brilliance and anything that interferes with this process reduces the radiance.

Consequently, we can assume there are the Ideal Cuts that achieve maximum shine and the Inferior Cuts that do not. In an Ideal Cut, as mentioned before, light enters the diamond, reflects internally from all the facets and disperses through the top of the diamond to create the maximum brilliance possible. Each facet given to the piece will therefore add to its luster.

Besides facets, there are other measures of the piece: the width and depth of the cut; and both of these must be proportionate. If there is more depth than width, some light will be lost from the opposite side of the pavilion, as the lower part of the diamond is called. Too deep a cut may also cause the light to disperse from the bottom of the stone to make it appear darker because some light has not reflected back out through the top. Likewise, if the depth is not adequate, light again escapes from the bottom and crates a glassy or watery look in addition to seeming dark since not enough reflections are possible. Both of these will reduce the gleam significantly and are classified as Inferior Cuts.

To conclude, the best cut is that which ensures maximum reflections and full light dispersion and in this manner, reveals the inherent beauty of the stone. The shape, though, is a matter of individual preference that does not impact the value aspect and the most commonly available shapes are:

Brilliant  Marquise  Pear  Emerald  Oval  Heart  Princess  Radiant

Maybe you could ask your jeweler for a proportionscope or Sarin machine to check out the stone’s cut!!!

The Clarity
The brilliance of a good diamond emanates from the passage of light through the stone. If nothing obstructs or hampers this passage, the stone is said to be of the best quality and value. This is rare, however, since most stones come with inclusions (internal marks) or blemishes (external flaws).

As a result, the grades for clarity are based on the number of inclusions, their size and location in the piece. The clarity scales commonly used by people in the trade include: